Don’t like to use the word hate, but Cape Race must be at the top of the list as one of the things least liked by NF sailors.   Winds gusting at 30 knots today means that Come What May sits still in Trepassey – a lovely little town, with its annual summer festival in full bloom.  Reluctant to take it all in unfortunately as must be ready and able to go again TOMORROW morning as the forecast now suggests that that might be doable.

A long leisurely day spent recounting the last three weeks and playing the coulda, shoulda, woulda game and relishing the long awaited return of Alfred and DP – that’s Alfred Lamb’s Palm Breeze Amber Rum for anyone who doesn’t know that (is there any such one?) and diet Pepsi – the first since we ran out way back in PAB a week ago.  Was that really just a week ago?

Cape Race was the closest point to where the Titantic hit that iceberg.  It is known to be the devil to get around.  Analyzing the weather and determining just when to “make a run for it” is becoming something of a crap shoot. Problem is, once there, after 3 hours of sailing, if you don’t like what you see, there’s nowhere to duck into – no safe haven and no where to go but on up the dreaded East Coast or back to Trepassey.  No man’s land……

So you vacillate between thinking you are just a wimp after all and just wanting to go for it, then concerned that in your quest to get home, you may be less inclined to heed the warnings – so you check with all your advisors and they confirm your decision and then you relax again in the knowledge that there is absolutely nothing you can do.  But sit and wait.  Sound like fun?

It actually kinda is – beats housework for sure.  Although a daily pep talk seems to be the norm lately between cap’n and crew.   When life hands you lemons……. Every cloud had a silver lining……..Glass half full……….

Look very hard just above the waterline.  The first hint of the Avalon yesterday evening as we approached Cape St. Mary’s was a welcome site – shrouded in fog just as expected……..beautiful nonetheless with the battering we took crossing Placentia Bay.   St. Bride’s was our haven.   This morning as we got ready to set sail, a good deed from a week before was returned 😀.  The father of the Captain of the Blue Puttees, who a week ago we had ‘”let in” ahead of us in PAB, recognized our boat as the little vessel who had held back – in turn, he rewarded us with a hearty ziplock bag of fresh cod he was cleaning from his catch just an hour before.

Tonight we enjoyed it cooked on the BBQ just after sunset in Trepassey after we were able to pay it forward – a wonderful man Wayne helped us dock and gave us a load of desperately needed fresh crushed ice for our boat cooler and we gave him some of that fish – he was grateful as were we!

So much to share about the fabulous sail today – glassy sea, sun, birds, whales!  More later – hoping to do a double day tomorrow so it’s up at 4 am 😦

Gnight from Trepassey – thanks to a friend John Devereaux for guiding us to the dock, sending along Wayne, taking our garbage, watering us with a stiff drink of rum, and reminding us of the wonderful time we were going to miss – this being the start of the weekend festivities in Trepassey for Come Home Year.

Not like the Cap’n and first mate to turn down a party, but getting Come What May home to her new home in Bay Roberts takes precedence……. And perhaps a bit of a party awaits there? 😃

Placentia Bay

Our sail today is simple – straight across Placentia Bay – taking us from the Burin Peninsula to the Avalon Peninsula – whoo hoo!!  Absolutely nothing to see along the way. We are halfway there.

Placentia Bay is not the friendliest today.  As we ride out the 2 metre seas, tethered to our little vessel, we nevertheless bask in the sun, grateful to the weather gods for giving us a break from the fog, rain and wind of yesterday.

For those of you who have never sunbathed in thermal underwear, wool sweater and bibbed coastal sailing pants, you should know it’s probably exactly as you imagine it.  The sun on your face is glorious and your nose takes the brunt of the burn if you’re not careful.

The Cap’n has been nicknamed Giovanni Caboto at times by the first mate.  His quest to reach the Avalon is admirable.  Today is the day.

Good news and bad news story in that.  Yay!  Reaching the Avalon Peninsula means we are practically home.  By road, we could be snuggled away at home in a couple of hours.  Alas, by sea, ’tis 4 more days in our little boat, freakin’ weather permitting of course. And, the hardest, least nicest sailing is yet to come – the last few weeks are like a walk in the park compared to fighting the northeasterly gales around the Avalon apparently……

Gotta go – rail is in the water, making it hard to write.  The sailors know what that means.😀

Signed, Still Smiling

This tiny town, with a population of 110, is nestled along the bank just as you enter Grey River.  Funny thing is, a little further up, there are a few cabins, apparently owned by Jerts Cove residents for when they need to “get away from it all”.  Reminds one of a George Carlin skit about “stuff” and how you can keep downsizing ….. Anyone’s whose seen it will understand.

And a small motor boat gives rides and tours to the locals it seems – something to do on a lazy Saturday afternoon.

Cute and quaint.

Cold in St. Pierre

Oh, also learned that St. Pierre weather and Newfoundland weather – same thing !

You can’t see them but under that hair are wonderful Mark’s Work Wearhouse contraptions called Earbags.  Thanks to Lynn Oxford for that knowledge!

And those little gloves from the most wonderful City in the Province sure came in handy on July 7 – thanks to Connie Fleming for those.

Those of you who read The Route posted by the Capn several weeks ago will recognize his final summary – copied and pasted here:

So 18 days sailing over three weeks. We start with three days in the bank. Will they all be lost to weather? To crew? To the boat? Or will we have a day in Port aux Basque with family? A day in France?

How about ALL OF THE ABOVE ??

What we learned:

1) 3 weeks is not enough time to sail a boat from Chester to Bay Roberts without night sailing…..2) June and early July cannot possibly be the best time to do this – think our advice was wrong…..3)  Cell service is completely unpredictable as today we can blog from the middle of the Atlantic.

What we already knew:

1) The weather forecast is never that accurate……2) Newfoundland weather can change in the blink of an eye…3) Living on a boat with a set plan is a good test of the strength of a relationship 😀

Headed to St. Brides from St. Pierre 3 hours ago, but are now being advised to head to St. Lawrence due to gusting winds expected in Placentia Bay this afternoon….

So suffice it to say that any parts or service needed in St. Pierre happens on St. Pierre time – our regular early morning safety check and “tool box talk” resulted in some minor engine repair, oil change, etc., which although the Capn performed himself, took significantly longer than expected. As a result we find ourselves once more relishing the French cuisine of this delightful island.

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Not Fortune

Zoom in and look way up to the end of the street – so, apparently, not all lighthouses are perched on a rocky cliff in the middle of the ocean after all.

The weather was so nice and the sea so calm, we proceeded onto St. Pierre for the night. Definitely need to come back for a longer visit – for now, we were happy to enjoy the finest French cuisine imaginable.

Heading to St. Lawrence – not nice weather and so this will be a shorter ride today.

Cheers!

What more appropriate than stinky cheese and cold crisp wine as we spy St. Pierre and Miquelon!

Where we are

About to pass by France on the way to Fortune!  Red arrow is Come What May.  Saved a drop of wine to toast  France as we pass through her waters – alas, our St. Pierre visit will have to be another day.

First signal we’ve had since leaving Ramea – will check in tonight and tell you about Grey River and the magical Francois!